One of the most well-known signatures of Beyoğlu is almost back in business. The charming Markiz Patisserie announced that it will reopen its doors in 2025. Istanbulites who long for the nostalgic patisserie culture can finally look inside the dusty and forlorn glasses of the store, not with melancholy, but rather with bliss.
Patisseries came in fashion during the urbanization and modernization period of the Ottoman Empire in the 19th century. They were the meeting points of many Istanbulites, particularly the ones on the Grand Rue de Péra (Istiklal Avenue) served mostly to the relatively rich and intellectual community of non-Muslims and Levantines. Therefore, the patisserie culture was, more or less, a mirror to the socioeconomic class inequality of the empire.
Lebon, Nisuaz, Baltzer, Savoy and Markiz were the famous patisseries of the city that stood out with their unique character and luxurious sense of serving. While some of them were able to resist the passing of time and endure their presence, many were lost to the conditions of the contemporary era where the patisserie culture left its place to the third wave of affordable and fast-paced coffee shops. Markiz Patisserie has a long history of resisting time, that dates all the way back to Lebon Patisserie & Cafe, the first patisserie of Türkiye.
Before Markiz Patisserie opened in its renowned location, the place was home to Lebon Patisserie & Cafe. Initially, the shop was known to be founded by a French-chef Edouard Lebon who left his job at the French Embassy kitchen and established the patisserie on the Grand Rue de Péra at the corner of Passage Oriental where non-Muslims and Levantines habited. The year 1886 was written on its sign. However, one of its two former partners, Abdurrahman Cengiz, corrected its founding year by stating, “The patisserie was founded by Charles Bourdon. We know the history of Lebon Patisserie from books as 1886. But one day, a customer brought in an old chocolate box from ‘Lebon’. ‘1810’ was written on this chocolate box.”
The motto of Lebon Patisserie & Cafe was “Chez Lebon, tout c’est bon,” meaning “Everything is good in Lebon,” in English. The store was the address for French dragees, profiteroles, European liqueurs, elegant employees, and high service quality. Moreover, the signature of the architect of Hotel Pera Palace Alexandre Vallaury was prominent in the interior design of the patisserie. In the 1920s, fine decorative “Art Nouveau” faience wall panels showcasing the four seasons made by French artist J.A. Arnoux were brought into the shop from France. However, the winter and summer panels were removed throughout the time. These outstanding tiles have been associated with the Markiz Patisserie after the store changed hands.
Lebon Patisserie had become an irreplaceable hotspot for famous artists, elites and rich minority groups. It was a meeting point for Turkish literati including Ahmet Haşim, Tevfik Fikret and Abdülhak Hamit Tarhan. Nevertheless, Lebon left its own place and reopened in Kumbaracı Street. Avedis Ohanyan Çakır established Markiz Patisserie there in 1940 and perhaps even carried the fame of its location forward.
The name “Markiz” was inspired by the famous chocolate brand “Marquise de Sévigné” in Paris. Between 1940 and 1980, Markiz Patisserie became a cultural and historical signature of Beyoğlu, symbolizing luxury and sophistication. Similar to Lebon, Markiz also was a hub for prestigious intellectuals such as Haldun Taner, Mina Urgan and Abidin Dino. It offered exquisite chocolates, delicate éclairs, cakes, petits fours and refined style. Though Markiz made a name for itself with remarkable success, it faced challenges over the decades and eventually had to close its doors. Due to the sale of Passage Oriental to an automotive company, Markiz Patisserie was shuttered in 1980.
For 23 years, the patisserie sat dormant while legal disputes over its fate continued. Thanks to the efforts of many artists and writers, most notably Haldun Taner, the High Council of Real Estate Antiquities and Monuments ordered the shop’s mythological iconographies and architectural design to be preserved. In 2003, Markiz delivered the exciting news of reopening to its regulars. After being purchased by the Aksoy Group in 1990, the patisserie was restored beautifully by staying true to its original Art Nouveau form and started catering to Beyoğlu’s urbane society with the unique desserts. Unfortunately, it struggled to catch up with its former prosperous days, therefore, had to close down in 2013. The place had a radical conversion to a fast-food restaurant called Yemek Kulübü (Meal Club) selling hamburgers and french fries in 2016. This new attempt also ended in failure and closed in 2018.
With the support of the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality Heritage Team, a restoration project on Markiz was initiated in 2021. Mahir Polat, the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality Deputy Secretary General, announced the project on a social media post as, "İBB Heritage is not stopping, we have commenced the restoration of the façade of Markiz, the gem of Istiklal. Seeing its doors locked upsets all of us. Istiklal is like a phoenix. No one should think it is dead, it will rise from its ashes."
The architect of the restoration, Ömer Esen, noted that their aim was reviving Markiz not only as a patisserie but also as a cultural event space. "Markiz has always been a place intertwined with art and will continue to be so,” he said.
The legendary patisserie of Beyoğlu was bought by Tekin Esen and Mehmet Erkul in 2023. The Esen and Erkul families had also purchased Narmanlı Han in 2013, restored its historic structure and reopened it for business. Under their stewardship, Markiz has gone through a similar comprehensive restoration plan. The process included staying true to the gracious nature of the old iconic Markiz and preserving its original design elements like the Autumn and Spring ceramic tiles.
Moreover, Esen stated that to bring the authentic Markiz legacy back, they made detailed research and gained insights from archives that are created with the support of valuable contributors. He further elaborated that they stayed true to the original menu, layout, and service culture and quality. “Everything, from the materials used to the presentation sets, from the display designs to the uniforms of our staff, will be attentive. Unlike the conventional practices of today, our goal is to revive the spirit of Haldun Taner’s words, ‘Here, is its own island’,” Esen said. In addition, he mentioned activating the Markiz website for customers to share their memories with Markiz, eventually to create a memory book.
After completing an extensive restoration process and meticulous preparation, Markiz Patisserie is ready to cater to the new generation of Istanbulites and revive its historic legacy of over 80 years. However, the reopening is not solely marking the revival of the Markiz but also Istanbul’s patisserie culture that is deeply rooted in the city’s cosmopolitan and Levantine heritage. People who feel nostalgic, want to meet with friends and family in a 20th century meeting point or simply wish to have a change from the take-away coffee shops should definitely stop by Markiz Patisserie.
Edited by: Derya Selin Yener, Yağmur Ece Nisanoğlu