When it comes to uncovering unexpectedly charming details at every turn, no city compares to Istanbul. With each quarter of the city radiating rich history and unique stories waiting to be told, Istanbul has far more to offer than what meets the eye. All that it takes to discover the secrets hidden amidst the hustle and bustle of Istanbul’s lively streets, is a touch of curiosity, a sense of adventure, and a dash of childlike wonder!
Among the most fascinating aspects of the city that remain hidden beneath the details are the sahafs-- the captivating antique bookstores of Türkiye. Sahaf, derived from the Arabic word "ṣaḥḥāf,” means bookseller. This word is a profession name formed in the faˁˁāl pattern of Arabic, based on the word "ṣaḥīfa(t),” which means "written paper, scroll, or book." Yet, Istanbul’s sahafs are far more than mere stores stocked with aging books and papers—they embody the spirit and soul of Istanbul and its people.
Much like Istanbul itself, the sahafs are wonderfully cluttered, filled to the brim with pleasant surprises and hidden treasures for those who know where – and how-- to look. From old books annotated with heartfelt words of love to letters that whisper somber tales, and photographs of long-forgotten families that have faded in color as years passed by; the sahafs of Istanbul offer much more than mere antique books. They are the custodians of the inimitable memories and narratives of the city’s people. They preserve the forgotten tales of Istanbul’s people.
Beneath all the clutter, lie countless stories for you to discover. If you’re eager to explore and immerse yourself in the authentic, compelling stories of Istanbul, here are three sahafs you simply must visit:
Aslıhan Sahaflar Çarşısı
Starting our list off with perhaps the most well-known, influential, and oldest sahafs of the city— the ‘Aslıhan Sahafs Bazaar.’ Situated in the well-known Beyoğlu district of Istanbul, hidden in the very heart of the Taksim Square, this dreamy bazaar is a must-visit for all curious book lovers and sightseers. With its dusty, yet warm, and nostalgic atmosphere, the bazaar houses a diverse selection of experienced and high-quality sahafs. The tiny, clutter-filled shops will lure you in with their unique charm, and you’ll find yourself having spent hours rushing from one sahaf to the next.
A book you’ve been searching for a long time might magically appear among the dusty shelves of these sahafs and land in your hands. A magazine, fanzine, or periodical you haven’t heard of in decades might suddenly manifest before your eyes, or the second-hand cassette of an underground artist you used to like might unknowingly catch your attention. Paintings, photographs, and postcards that have fallen victim to the cruelty of time may find a new life in your hands.
Denizler Kitabevi ve Sahaf
The next destination once again takes us to the beyond-belief busy Beyoğlu district of Istanbul. Having been operating in the Istiklal Avenue for approximately thirty years, “Denizler Bookstore and Sahaf,” has gained a cult following through the decades. Most visitors firstly fall in love with the ethereal, museum-like atmosphere of this sahaf, and stay longer for the extraordinary historical pieces it offers.
With a wide selection of rare books, maps, engravings, and antiquities, “Denizler Bookstore and Sahaf” also hosts auctions for those interested in these curious artifacts. The treasure trove of scrolls, antique books, and prints regarding niche topics such as fishery and seamanship makes this sahaf uniquely appealing. Having stolen our hearts since stepping into this cozy and dazzling shop, “Denizler Bookstore and Sahaf” invites wonderers for an unmatched adventure behind its dusty, enchanted shelves.
Fahrenheit 451 Recycling Store
While struggling to walk down the steep and twisting Yüksek Kaldırım Avenue, descending alongside Galata Tower, you might come across a clandestine, thrilling detail: the colorful basement entrance of the compelling ‘Fahrenheit 451 Recycling Store.’
Having gotten its name from Ray Bradbury’s iconic dystopian novel, “Fahrenheit 451,” in which a fireman named Montag burns books in a society where they are banned to suppress free thought. However, as he begins questioning this oppressive system, Montag rebels, seeking knowledge and freedom through the very books he once destroyed. This witty reference to Bradbury’s incredibly influential novel immediately establishes the tone, stance, and goal ‘Fahrenheit 451 Recycling Store’ is setting for those paying attention to details.
The insides and contents of this literally underground store are as colorful as its entrance. Offering second-hand books with faded spines—ranging from classics to contemporaries, art to philosophy. Clever literary and political references are hidden everywhere for the wondering eye to find and smile.
Unique to this inimitable sahaf is the concept of “Blind Date with a Book,” which promises a literal blind date with a book as the books in this section are wrapped, labeled with just a few hints to evoke curiosity, and sold without revealing their contents. Of course, this original concept becomes all the more exciting when the book you’re buying has lived another life in the hands of another, perhaps having been marked by heartfelt annotations, or including cryptic letters inside. There’s much more to say about the unique ‘Fahrenheit 451 Recycling Store,’ but words cannot do justice to this magical sahaf. It is, to say the least, a must-visit for bibliophiles and curious souls.
Muhsin Kitap Bookstore
We end our list with a very special sahaf, ‘Muhsin Kitap Bookstore.’ Situated in the historic Tophane district of Istanbul, this sahaf is only minutes away from both Beyoğlu and Karaköy. ‘Muhsin Kitap Bookstore’, is owned by an incredibly knowledgeable and welcoming owner, however, the co-owner Feride immediately steals the show. Feride, the incredibly warm and equally chunky store cat, has become the face of the local sahaf—even making it to the national news! She welcomes you the moment you step in and doesn’t leave your side until you leave, making the moments you spend skimming through the incredibly large selection of antique all the more appealing.
‘Muhsin Kitap Bookstore’ houses one of the largest selections of foreign second-hand books in the area, making it possible for you to get your hands on books that would currently be nearly impossible to find. The serene shop is filled to the brim with interesting objects, prints, and books that whisper to you to lose both yourself and track of time as you explore. The shop being situated in an area surrounded by majestic and historical French buildings contributes perfectly to the gagical experience. Make sure to visit this unique sahaf, explore its beautiful surroundings, and give the lovely co-owner Feride a friendly pat.
Edited by: Yağmur Ece Nisanoğlu, Ömer Gökce